I have 14 guitars with neck shapes as thin as an Ibanez shredder to a Harmony H88 Stratotone Doublet. The actual guitar is better known by it's nickname 'The Baseball Bat'. They all feel different. Each one 'does' change the sound. The ones that are heavier or have more mass give you more sustain but mass darkens the tone. A darker tone gives you more definition especially when using a lot of dirt. Different woods have by nature different weight etc, so trying to pin point what is best for you is an insane proposition.
There are no rules. There is no such thing as the best. It is like clothing ...the best is what fits. There are many myths. Thin necks may seem fast when you try one. If you play one though after a little while you can find you hand fatiguing because the inside curve of your hand has no place to rest. Whatever you choose you will soon find it will not slow you down. Your hand and mind adapt and soon it makes F.-all difference. In 1950 the fastest neck and the one that allowed access to the highest notes was the Tele! Nothing else came close!
There are numerous players that still play a 1950's Tele or a reissue with it's chunky neck that are virtuosos. So not much can slow you down but not putting in the work and even more so your attitude. If you think you can. You can. If you think you can't. You won't. It is merely choice.
Yes ...the scale length makes a difference to the feel and to your reach. The width does the same. Last but not least is the radius of the fretboard. Add to this you will invariably have to compromise to get the look, the style and even the tone in trade for comfort.
There are numerous players that still play a 1950's Tele or a reissue with it's chunky neck that are virtuosos. So not much can slow you down but not putting in the work and even more so your attitude. If you think you can. You can. If you think you can't. You won't. It is merely choice.
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